Piedmont Triad Area

Old Salem

Take a Journey Back in Time

Restored - not rebuilt - Old Salem Museum and Gardens shows modern day visitors how everyday life has evolved and perfectly bonds with the 21st century.

First, a common misunderstanding needs to be corrected. Old Salem Museum and Gardens is not a miniaturized version of Colonial Williamsburg.

The latter is a venerated Virginia museum offering insight into America’s colonial past. Mention Old Salem and one phrase is repeated proudly by the residents of this hilly Moravian town, begun in 1766.

“Williamsburg had to rebuild, all we had to do was restore.”

The difference is felt immediately when your feet hit the uneven brick sidewalk. Here the historic area merges seamlessly with modern life. Watch as a high powered SUV parallel parks in front of a clapboard house with a 19th century clad interpreter framed in the doorway. The transposition is comforting.

Old Salem marches to a cadence rooted in the past, celebrating the present and anticipating the future. You are invited to join in.

While anyone can roam the streets for free, a ticket is required for entrance into any of the four distinctly different museums and some of the historic area’s buildings. All can be found in less than a two-mile radius.

Who were the Moravians? Persecuted Protestants left what is now the Czech Republic and first settled in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. Eventually in the mid 18th century they pioneered their way south to North Carolina and settled a 98,000 tract of land called “Wachovia”. Salem became just one of a several settlements. Moravians still thrive in the region.

Among Old Salem’s highly respected facilities is MESDA (The Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts). Walk through 24 decorated rooms and a series of galleries and discover the talents of seven southern states’ artisans, of the late 17th to early 19th century. See how the elegance of a Low Country home, from South Carolina, contrasts with the rough hewn yet still highly crafted furnishings of an Appalachian mountain cabin. Folk art and fine art define the lifestyles of the past through ceramic, textiles, paintings, furniture and more.

The nearby Children’s Museum highlights American colonial life through fun activities such as learning how to lay bricks, cook a meal without a microwave or understand the concept of a chamber pot.

Is your inner child still calling?

Perhaps a tour of the Toy Museum is just the ticket to a nostalgic journey of playtimes past. Here dolls dating back from the 17th century share space with 20th century German made planes, trains and automobiles. Teddy bears, puzzles and puppets are more of the items displayed in the facility’s range of exhibits celebrating over 1700 years of childhood joy.

Back on the streets of the historic area it is an easy and enjoyable sojourn to the past.

Among treasured stopping points are St Phillips, the state’s oldest African-American church building, the Single Brothers and Single Sisters Halls and the various trade shops. At the shoemaker’s you will learn, from a period costumed demonstrator, the cost of a single pair of shoes could be up to a week’s salary in the 1800’s.

John Volger’s home demonstrates how a skilled 19th century silversmith began to appreciate the speed of services offered by the Industrial Revolution. Over the years Brother Volger began selling less of his own creations and more of manufactured works from Philadelphia. One of his handmade items, however, still inspires romantics. A ring, crafted for his wife, features two clasped hands with the inscription “with God and thee, my joy shall be.”

Throughout the day, a number of demonstrations are offered in the historic area. Ranging from paper cutting (called scherenschnitte), quill pen writing, colorful ribbon needlework to open fire cooking – questions, from all ages, are encouraged.

The Tannenberg Organ remains the largest surviving organ created by the renowned 18th and 19th century organ builder - David Tannenberg of Lititz, Pennsylvania. To organ aficionados Tannenberg’s name ranks high with Steinway and Stradivarius. Following its recent restoration, after being forgotten in various local attics, the 208 year-old organ’s mighty bellows and pipes once again enable the magnificent instrument to fill the air with inspirational music.

The all time favorite stop, while in Old Salem, is Winkler Bakery. A beehive oven continually offers fresh breads, cakes or of course the famed ginger infused Moravian cookies. Treat yourself, and others; to the delicious taste of Old Salem.

For more Moravian fare – get yourself to the Old Salem Tavern and if weather permits sit on the back porch or under the grape arbors. Here time slows to a leisurely pace, the costumed wait staff is friendly and the food sublime. Hint: try the warm gingerbread with lemon ice cream. Your mouth will thank you. Also do not be shy - visit with your fellow diners and you might just discover locals with some interesting insights on Old Salem.

By Linda J. Bottjer

added: December 12, 2008

updated: August 30, 2010